How LureWright recipes work.

An account holds your colors, your baits and your preferences. There is no password: you give an email address, and every sign-in sends a short code to it.

• Your username

  The only part of your profile anyone else sees. It goes on any recipe you share, so pick something you are happy having on a printed sheet. Your name and email stay private.

• Profile picture

  Choose a picture on your profile, drag it into place in the circle, and zoom if you want. It replaces your initial at the top of every page, on every device you sign in on, and only you see it. Any photo up to 20 MB works; the site crops and shrinks it for you.

• Theme

  Light, dark, or high contrast, saved the moment you pick it and carried to any device you sign in on. System and high contrast both follow whatever your device is set to.

• Tips email

  A monthly email of tips and tricks, only if you ask for it: tick the box when you sign up, or on your profile. Untick it there, or use the unsubscribe link in any of the emails, to stop it. Sign-in codes arrive either way. Every past issue is under Tips, at the foot of each page.

The Color Lab shows a worm in any mix of LureWright colors before you mix it. No account needed. Open Color Lab from the top of any page.

1. 1

   Say how much plastisol

   It starts at 1 cup, the size of the measuring cup most makers mix in. Change it to whatever you are mixing, in cups, ounces, milliliters, liters or gallons. Every color is measured against it, so 4 drops in a cup and 4 drops in a gallon look very different.

2. 2

   Pick colors and amounts

   Choose a color, type how much, and pick drops or another measure. Add up to six colors to see how they mix. Fractions are fine: 1/2 and 0.5 are the same.

3. 3

   Add glitter if you like

   Under Glitter, pick a Crystal Spark color, its size and how much. Size is the cut: the smallest reads as fine dust and the largest as separate chips, so the same spoonful looks very different. Glitter sits in the plastic rather than tinting it, so the worm shows it as pieces, each its own color, and a few flash where they catch the light. Holographic glitter flashes a different rainbow color piece by piece, and Turn the bait moves the flashes.

4. 4

   Try a color shift

   Under Color shift, pick a Crystal Shift and how much. A shift shows one color where the bait faces you and another at its edges, and Turn the bait slides between them, the way the color rolls across a real bait as it moves. It shows strongest over the dark strip and in darker water. Holo is different: it throws a rainbow that rolls along the body over its silver. Only shifts with their colors recorded are offered.

5. 5

   Read the worm

   On the bench it lies across a light surface and a dark strip. A see-through color goes darker where it crosses the strip, the same way a bait looks held up to the light or set on a dark bench. Only see-through colors are in the lab for now; opaque colors join it when they are made.

6. 6

   See it in the water

   Switch to In the water and slide Water from clear through stained to muddy, and Light from bright sun to dark. Water soaks up some colors before others: clear water takes red first, stained water turns everything olive, and mud washes everything toward tan. Under the worm is the usual advice for that water. It is a picture of how water changes a bait, not a measurement of any one lake.

7. 7

   Treat it as a close estimate

   The worm is worked out from how strong each color is, the same way the swatches on every color are. It is not a photo, so mix a small test batch before a big one.

A color is a formula: a plastisol base, and everything measured against it. Start at Account → Colors → New color.

1. 1

   Name it, and describe it if you like

   The description is only shown in the library if you ever share the color, so it is optional. The name cannot be changed once the color is saved — it is what the link and the QR code point at.

2. 2

   Set the base

   The base plastisol row is your batch. Everything else is measured against it, so the amount you put here decides what the rest of the numbers mean. You can have more than one base row and they add up, but they must all use the same unit — an 8 oz base and a 1 gal base cannot be totaled without guessing, so the form will not let you.

3. 3

   Add colorant, flake and the rest

   Pick the product line, and its options appear as dropdowns — the exact Crystal Spark color and cut, the exact scent — because those are the things LureWright sells, not free text. Anything staff have not listed options for falls back to typing, so nothing you know is lost.

4. 4

   Measure by amount or by percentage

   Each ingredient takes a number and a unit, or you can switch it to a percentage of the base. Percentages are what make a formula scale: the same recipe reads correctly whether you are making 8 oz or 5 gallons. Fractions are fine — 1/2 and 0.5 are the same thing to the form.

5. 5

   Save it

   It lands private. Colors keep a version history, so correcting one later saves a new version rather than overwriting what you already printed.

A bait is the finished thing: which colors, in which molds, at what temperature, in what order. Start at Account → Baits → New bait. Make the colors first — a bait is built out of them.

1. 1

   Name it and pick a style

   The style is how it is listed and searched — craw, worm, tube, swimbait and so on.

2. 2

   Describe the parts

   A bait starts with a Body and a Tail, and you can rename, add or remove parts until they match what you actually shoot. A two-color tube is a body part and a tail part; a one-piece worm is a single part. Each part gets its own color, so a laminate is just two parts with two colors.

3. 3

   Choose the base formulation per part

   Soft, medium or firm plastisol, chosen on the part. The page works out the blend as you go and tells you what it suits — and it accounts for what you add: a softener on a soft base reads as super soft, a hardener on a firm one as super tough.

4. 4

   Add softener, hardener, scent or glitter

   Additions belong to the part, not the bait, so the claws can be softer than the body. Where a product line sells both a softener and a hardener, the option you choose says which way it pulls, and the blend readout follows it.

5. 5

   Name the mold

   Pick the brand — Do-It, Epic Baits, Angling AI and the rest — and type the mold. Each part names its own, because a two-color tube usually comes out of two molds. This is also what the mold filter in the bait library searches, so other makers can find the recipes that fit the molds they own.

6. 6

   Set the shoot temperature

   Anywhere hot plastic is involved, the sheet should say how hot. Leave it blank and the part inherits the color’s own temperature, shown to you as the placeholder so you can see what it will print. Set it on the part when that part runs differently.

7. 7

   Write the steps

   An ordered list of what you do, in the order you do it. These are instructions, which is why they are kept apart from notes — steps print as a checklist with a blank box beside each one, so you can tick them off at the bench. Reorder them with the arrows.

8. 8

   Scale it if you need to

   Scale every part by a factor and every amount moves together. It will refuse a factor that takes any part below 1 of its unit: half a drop is not a measurement, and whoever reads the sheet would have to guess.

Every color and every bait is private when you make it. You decide if it goes further, and you choose per recipe — sharing one color shares nothing else.

• Private

  Where everything starts. A private recipe has no address of its own, so there is nothing to share by accident and nothing for a search engine to find. Print it, change it, throw it away — it is yours alone.

• Shared

  Sharing gives it a permanent link and a QR code, and lists it for other signed-in makers under “From makers”. Your username goes on it. You can still edit it, and you can retire it later — the link keeps working so printed sheets are never orphaned.

• Published

  Publishing puts it on the public site under “From LureWright”, readable without signing in. It is deliberately one-way: a published recipe cannot be made private again and cannot be deleted, because the QR code on a printed sheet has to keep resolving. Correct one by saving a new version, or supersede it. Only LureWright staff can publish.

You change this from the recipe’s own page in your account, under Sharing. A shared or published recipe keeps the same link forever, which is the whole point: the QR code on a sheet you printed last season still opens the right page today.

Every color and bait prints as a bench sheet, either straight from the browser or as a PDF. They are the same sheet.

• The header repeats

  The LureWright logo sits top left and the QR code top right, on every page, so a sheet that runs to two pages is still identifiable when the pages get separated.

• The QR code

  It points at the recipe’s page. Scan it at the bench to pull up the current version, or to find out that the recipe has since been replaced. A private recipe has no public page, so its sheet carries no code.

• Steps print as a checklist

  Numbered, with an empty checkbox beside each, and kept whole on one page rather than split across a page break.

Recipes get better. Nothing that was ever public is deleted outright, because somebody may be holding a sheet that points at it.

• Delete, if it was never public

  A private recipe has no link anyone could follow, so deleting it removes it for good.

• Archive, if it was

  A shared or published recipe is retired instead. It leaves the library and search engines are told not to index it, but its page stays up and says plainly that it was archived, and when.

• Name what replaced it

  When you archive, you can point at the recipe that takes its place. The old page then sends readers to the new one. Chains are followed to the end: if A was replaced by B and B is later replaced by C, both A and B send people to C — nobody lands on an out-of-date recipe just because they scanned an old sheet.

• Supersede, to start from what you have

  On a shared or published bait, Supersede copies it into a private draft you can work on. The original is untouched and stays live until you decide to retire it, so you are never editing something people are reading.

• Superseded colors inside a bait

  If a color a bait uses has been replaced, the bait page says so and asks which you want: the formula as it was when the bait was written, or the color as it is now. It does not choose for you, because both answers are sometimes right.

Where a recipe names products LureWright stocks, the page offers to put them in your cart. Checkout happens on the LureWright store.

• What gets added

  Exactly the products and variants the recipe names — the same colorant, the same flake, the same scent. You pick the size you want; we do not convert a recipe amount into a pack size for you, because how much you keep on the shelf is your call.

• When it is not there

  Anything not stocked, or a custom ingredient you typed yourself, is listed but not buyable. The panel does not appear at all on a recipe where nothing is stocked.